When To Transplant Hardy Mums For Success

If you’re cautious with when to transplant hardy mums, you can do so when the plant becomes woody. This can happen every two years, where the mums are less productive, and you can transplant them in early spring. You can also transplant the plants when they reach 8 inches in height or repot them when they are actively growing in fall or even do a second transplanting in spring when they become rootbound. 

Regardless, it’s not surprising that many gardeners want to have these perennials. They are relatively easy to grow, and mums’ propagation is not even complicated for the newbie. However, transplanting can be tricky, so you can always start your mums in the greenhouse to create vigorous transplants.  

When To Transplant Hardy Mums For Success

When To Transplant Hardy Mums And Tips For Success

There are three instances where you can transplant hardy mums. The emphasis is necessary on the word hardy because transplanting mums that aren’t vigorous enough will struggle growing or even survive. A useful tip for growing hardy mums is starting plants in the greenhouse, regardless of your propagation method. 

You can control the greenhouse to ensure the ideal growing environment for the mums in their vulnerable period, which helps them get healthy and withstand the conditions outdoors later on. You can then gently get your mums accustomed to the weather outside, and once they harden, you can transplant during these periods. 

 

When they turn woody

You can transplant hardy mums when they turn woody. The beauty with these perennials is that one can still make use of them after they finished blooming. Chrysanthemums will eventually become woody in the center after about two or three years and become less productive. 

This is a perfect opportunity to divide your mums, which will help promote flowering and control overcrowding. Divide the plants in early spring when new growth appears and then remove all the dead parts. You can then transplant the divisions, but not those having more woody parts. 

 

When they reach 8 inches in height after from sowing

Another excellent time to transplant hardy mums is when they’re around 6 to 8 inches tall after germination. Again, you want them to be strong enough to transplant, so other than the height and true leaves, check your plants’ condition before transplanting. Sowing mum seeds is relatively exciting and straightforward as you don’t know what bloom you’ll get. 

But since mums have a long growing season, you want to start them in the greenhouse. Sow six to eight weeks before your last frost date, which you can check from your area’s hardiness zone. You can then transplant the mums when they are around 8 inches tall. 

 

Spring or autumn

If you want to repot mums, you can do so in fall while they’re still actively growing. If you have plants that risk getting rootbound, you can also repot chrysanthemums for the second time in spring. The latter is best if you notice your mums growing fast and losing adequate space for their roots. 

 

How To Transplant Hardy Mums

 

Preparation

Once you learned the ideal times to transplant mums, your next consideration for successful transplanting is how to transplant itself. Chrysanthemums are generally hardy, so following the recommendations will be the only factor affecting their survival after transplanting. Start by choosing an area that receives 6 hours of sunlight daily and incorporate compost to the soil to improve its drainage and fertility. 

 

Planting

Remember to be gentle, especially if you’re dividing the mums. For example, a clump of chrysanthemum can have three to four plants, which you can divide using your hands. The hole for transplanting should be twice as wide as your plant’s roots to accommodate its growth and then spread the roots before setting the mum in the hole.

You want the crown to be at the soil level after you pack soil around the roots. Mums can grow well at 24 inches apart with an inch of water after you’ve transplanted them. What about repotting? 

 

Repotting

Turn the pot upside down so you can gently get the mum out of it. Place the plant in the new pot with a potting mixture. You want to have the root ball an inch below the pot’s rim and then put it in an area out of direct sunlight. 

After you’ve finished transplanting, you may need to do additional practices. For example, if you plant in summer, mums will need pinching out to encourage fall bloom. On the contrary, those grown in fall will eventually be ready to bloom without pinching. 

 

Conclusion

Starting chrysanthemums in the greenhouse ensure hardy plants for transplanting. But do you know when to transplant hardy mums for success? Three instances make good times for transplanting.

First is when you divide woody mums after two years; second is when your mums reach 8 inches tall after you sow them, and lastly, it is in autumn or spring for repotting. Those who want to prevent their mums from being rootbound will benefit well from repotting in spring. However, timing is only the first factor to overcome when transplanting.

Ensure that the area is well-prepared for the mums, and you have hardened them off before transplanting. Nonetheless, it’s best to start them indoors to be vigorous enough and withstand unpredictable outdoor conditions. 

 

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How To Prevent Root Rot In Hydroponics: 3 Useful Tips

If you’re a newbie gardener who’s looking to find ways to hone your skills, you’d want to learn how to prevent root rot in hydroponics even before this problem affects your plants.

Hydroponics can be advantageous to crops in more ways than one. However, it also comes with risks of diseases, such as root rot, which can be destructive or even lethal to your plants.

Unfortunately, there are no effective methods to recover the wilted parts that were affected by the root rot once it hits your plants. The only thing you can do if you do not want this catastrophe to befall your crops is to prevent it before it happens. Read on to learn more about this subject.

 

What is Root Rot?

Root rot is a disease that attacks the plant roots and causes them to suffer decay. This usually happens when a lack of oxygen supply occurs in the substrate.

To give you an idea, think about plant roots that are submerged in water that only has a little oxygen in it. Over time, the plant suffocates and dies.

Aside from rot and decay, this disease also leads to the proliferation of fungi that are naturally present in the soil. These include Rhizoctonia, Alternaria, Pythium, Botrytis, Fusarium, or Phytophthora. As soon as fungi colonies start to grow, they tend to target the weakened roots and infect your precious plant babies.

Once the plant becomes infected, they won’t be able to take in what they need to grow – water, oxygen, and other nutrients. When this happens, it won’t be long before the plant dies.

 

What is Hydroponics?

In case you’re not aware, the term hydroponic is derived from a Latin word that means “working water”. To put it simply, hydroponics is an art that involves growing various types of plants without soil. If you’re like most people, the first thing that comes to mind when somebody talks about hydroponics would be a picture of plants with roots suspended into the water without using any type of growing medium.

 

Avoiding Root Rot in Hydroponic Systems

Detecting and identifying root rot can be tricky. When your plants get infected, their leaves and roots gradually wither until the whole crop itself dies from the lack of nutrients, which is a common symptom of many diseases.

 

What causes root rot in hydroponics?

One of the requirements in hydroponics systems is oxygen. Without it, your plants are basically on the road to death. On the other hand, lack of such is one of the major triggers for root rot, and it must be avoided at all costs.

Just like when planting in soil, you loosen up the ground so that your plants’ roots can have their required intake of oxygen. That is the case for crops grown in aqueous solutions as well. If they cannot breathe, they would not be able to grow.

Another agent for root rot is the temperature. The last thing you would want in your system are parasites that leech nutrients intended for your plants and infect the water during the process. In common terms, these fungi are called molds.

One of the best breeding grounds for these is warm and moist areas. For this reason, if the water temperature inside your reservoir is high, then you are susceptible to it. Something as minor as letting the solutions exposed to sunlight can already be a risk factor.

 

3 Useful Tips on How to prevent root rot in hydroponics

There is good news! Root rot in hydroponics can be prevented! Just follow these tips:

Tip#1: Use the right air pump

If you do not want root rot to affect your plants, you merely have to avoid its causes. If you need oxygen, keep the water bubbling by providing an air pump of appropriate size, and also give importance to proper ventilation in the room.

 

Tip #2: Maintain the temperature

The temperature should be maintained within the 70 to 80 degrees F range. Get rid of any materials that can make your system vulnerable to infections, and make sure not to disturb your crops while they are trying to grow.

 

Tip #3: Get rid of the rotten parts

However, if you failed in preventing the disease, then the rotten parts should be removed immediately. Cut them off as there is no chance of reviving them, and focus on the potential new growth instead. Fix your hydroponics system and eliminate the risks.

 

Why Give Greenhouse Gardening a Try?

Greenhouse gardening offers numerous benefits to greens aficionados who dare to take their gardening experience to the next level. Aside from acting as a shield against the effects of inclement weather, a mini, hobby, or semi-pro greenhouse can also serve as a protective layer that keeps harmful bugs and critters at bay.

What’s more, its enclosed structure allows you to control your plants’ growing conditions including the temperature, light, moisture, and ventilation of the greenhouse’s internal environment. With a controlled environment, you’ll be able to extend growing seasons and grow plants that aren’t native to your area.

 

Conclusion

No matter how well-informed you are about how to prevent root rot in hydroponics, you cannot completely eradicate the risks. Therefore, to avoid the worst-case scenario, you should be prepared to sacrifice the infected for the sake of others. While you’re at it, consider trying your hand at greenhouse gardening as well.

 

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