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How To Start Canna Seeds in 2 Simple Ways

If you want to grow your own canna garden, then you should know how to start canna seeds. Growing canna from rhizomes is the easiest way to propagate these tropical flowers. Still, you can also grow cannas from seeds.

Cannas can be planted as small, inconspicuous accents or as beautiful focal points in your garden. If you’re interested in growing cannas from seeds just to see how they would turn out, then it’s certainly worth a try.

 

Planting Cannas and Harvesting the Seeds

Cannas should be planted outdoors in early summer or late spring. Soil temperature should be 60°F. You can also plant cannas in greenhouses or in pots indoors if the planting season is short.

Canna lilies need moist soil and a lot of sunshine, so pick a site that receives at least four hours of sunlight daily. You should also loosen the soil and add a 2″ to 4″ layer of compost.

Seed pods will develop once the blooms are spent. The pods are round, green, spiky, and usually contain one to three seeds. You can harvest the seeds once the pods become dry.

The pods will open up, and that’s when you can easily squeeze the black seeds out. Collecting the seeds is easy because they are big and shiny.

 

How to Start Canna Seeds

It’s not easy to grow cannas from seeds. You need to soften the seed coat before planting them. The process is time-consuming, so you should prepare the seeds for at least one to two months before planting them outside. Germination usually takes one to two weeks. Here are two ways to germinate canna seeds.

 

Soaking

Before sowing the seeds in a commercial medium, soak them in water for 24 hours. Then, cover the canna seeds and water the medium. Let the medium drain for several minutes. Cover the pot with a freezer bag and keep it in a warm place.

You also need to keep the medium’s temperature at 70 to 75 F. Once the seeds grow, remove the bag, and put the seedlings under fluorescent lights or near a sunny window. Transplant the seedlings into individual containers once they are big enough to handle.

 

Scarification

Another way to encourage seed germination is by chipping the seeds before planting them. The hard coating of the seeds can affect the speed of germination. You need to be careful when chipping the seeds, though. Rub it off just until the white part of the seed becomes visible.

You can use a blade or file to rub off the seed coating. Sandpaper and nail clippers will also work. The best thing about this method is that you can plant scarified seeds directly in the germination medium without soaking them in water.

However, you need to keep the container warm throughout the gardening season. But if you still want to soak the seeds, you’re free to do so. Soak the seeds in water for two days.

Once they germinate, you can plant them either in 3″ to 4″ flowerpots or individual cell trays. Using the latter is convenient because you won’t need to plant them individually when they’re older.

If you’re only going to plant a few seeds, then it’s better to use plastic flowerpots. You can plant three to five seeds in a pot to reduce the stress of untangling the roots when you need to transplant them.

Fertilize the seedlings with a 10-10-10 fertilizer after one week. Cannas are usually propagated from rhizomes, but you don’t need to worry if you don’t have one. You just need to know how to start canna seeds, so you can grow these blooms in your garden.

 

Why Start Your Canna Seeds in a Mini Greenhouse?

There are several reasons why you should start canna seeds in a mini greenhouse. However, many gardeners are hesitant to dabble into greenhouse gardening because they think that buying or building one is expensive.

But the truth is, greenhouses come in different shapes and sizes. Mini greenhouses have a standard size of 6 feet, and they’re more affordable. These greenhouses are also a great way to start canna seeds or any type of seeds for that matter.

Seeds and seedlings are very delicate and they need all the protection they could get. Mini greenhouses are perfect for starting your canna seeds. They offer all-year protection and warmth, so your plants will grow healthy and safe from the elements. Greenhouse equipment such as grow lights, fans, and heaters and coolers allow you to create the ideal growing environment for your plants.

Greenhouses also keep pests away from your plants. Aphids, mealybugs, spider mites, deer, moles, and other pests and animals can be detrimental to your plants. Keeping them inside a greenhouse may lower the risk of pest infestations.

 

Final Thoughts on How to Start Canna Seeds

What better way to add a touch of tropics to your garden than to plant canna lilies? Knowing how to start canna seeds from scratch lets you enjoy the beauty of these plants in your home. Starting from seed is the easiest way to plant canna lilies and they grow best in USDA plant hardiness zones 8 to 11.

 

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How To Prevent Root Rot In Hydroponics: 3 Useful Tips

If you’re a newbie gardener who’s looking to find ways to hone your skills, you’d want to learn how to prevent root rot in hydroponics even before this problem affects your plants.

Hydroponics can be advantageous to crops in more ways than one. However, it also comes with risks of diseases, such as root rot, which can be destructive or even lethal to your plants.

Unfortunately, there are no effective methods to recover the wilted parts that were affected by the root rot once it hits your plants. The only thing you can do if you do not want this catastrophe to befall your crops is to prevent it before it happens. Read on to learn more about this subject.

 

What is Root Rot?

Root rot is a disease that attacks the plant roots and causes them to suffer decay. This usually happens when a lack of oxygen supply occurs in the substrate.

To give you an idea, think about plant roots that are submerged in water that only has a little oxygen in it. Over time, the plant suffocates and dies.

Aside from rot and decay, this disease also leads to the proliferation of fungi that are naturally present in the soil. These include Rhizoctonia, Alternaria, Pythium, Botrytis, Fusarium, or Phytophthora. As soon as fungi colonies start to grow, they tend to target the weakened roots and infect your precious plant babies.

Once the plant becomes infected, they won’t be able to take in what they need to grow – water, oxygen, and other nutrients. When this happens, it won’t be long before the plant dies.

 

What is Hydroponics?

In case you’re not aware, the term hydroponic is derived from a Latin word that means “working water”. To put it simply, hydroponics is an art that involves growing various types of plants without soil. If you’re like most people, the first thing that comes to mind when somebody talks about hydroponics would be a picture of plants with roots suspended into the water without using any type of growing medium.

 

Avoiding Root Rot in Hydroponic Systems

Detecting and identifying root rot can be tricky. When your plants get infected, their leaves and roots gradually wither until the whole crop itself dies from the lack of nutrients, which is a common symptom of many diseases.

 

What causes root rot in hydroponics?

One of the requirements in hydroponics systems is oxygen. Without it, your plants are basically on the road to death. On the other hand, lack of such is one of the major triggers for root rot, and it must be avoided at all costs.

Just like when planting in soil, you loosen up the ground so that your plants’ roots can have their required intake of oxygen. That is the case for crops grown in aqueous solutions as well. If they cannot breathe, they would not be able to grow.

Another agent for root rot is the temperature. The last thing you would want in your system are parasites that leech nutrients intended for your plants and infect the water during the process. In common terms, these fungi are called molds.

One of the best breeding grounds for these is warm and moist areas. For this reason, if the water temperature inside your reservoir is high, then you are susceptible to it. Something as minor as letting the solutions exposed to sunlight can already be a risk factor.

 

3 Useful Tips on How to prevent root rot in hydroponics

There is good news! Root rot in hydroponics can be prevented! Just follow these tips:

Tip#1: Use the right air pump

If you do not want root rot to affect your plants, you merely have to avoid its causes. If you need oxygen, keep the water bubbling by providing an air pump of appropriate size, and also give importance to proper ventilation in the room.

 

Tip #2: Maintain the temperature

The temperature should be maintained within the 70 to 80 degrees F range. Get rid of any materials that can make your system vulnerable to infections, and make sure not to disturb your crops while they are trying to grow.

 

Tip #3: Get rid of the rotten parts

However, if you failed in preventing the disease, then the rotten parts should be removed immediately. Cut them off as there is no chance of reviving them, and focus on the potential new growth instead. Fix your hydroponics system and eliminate the risks.

 

Why Give Greenhouse Gardening a Try?

Greenhouse gardening offers numerous benefits to greens aficionados who dare to take their gardening experience to the next level. Aside from acting as a shield against the effects of inclement weather, a mini, hobby, or semi-pro greenhouse can also serve as a protective layer that keeps harmful bugs and critters at bay.

What’s more, its enclosed structure allows you to control your plants’ growing conditions including the temperature, light, moisture, and ventilation of the greenhouse’s internal environment. With a controlled environment, you’ll be able to extend growing seasons and grow plants that aren’t native to your area.

 

Conclusion

No matter how well-informed you are about how to prevent root rot in hydroponics, you cannot completely eradicate the risks. Therefore, to avoid the worst-case scenario, you should be prepared to sacrifice the infected for the sake of others. While you’re at it, consider trying your hand at greenhouse gardening as well.

 

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